The short answer: in prewar NYC buildings, the wall above a window is usually plaster over wood lath, hollow clay block or brick — and right above the window there’s often a steel lintel. A curtain rod holds when each bracket’s anchor matches what’s actually behind the plaster.
Why rods pull out of old walls
A curtain rod gets pulled down and sideways every time the curtains open and close. The plastic anchors that come in the rod’s box are made for drywall. In plaster they spin, in hollow block they have nothing to grip, and in brick they don’t go in at all. The result is a bracket that loosens over a few weeks — often taking a chunk of plaster with it.
What’s behind prewar plaster
| Behind the plaster | Where you find it | What holds a bracket |
|---|---|---|
| Wood lath | Interior walls of older buildings | Screws into the framing or blocking, or toggle anchors through plaster and lath |
| Hollow clay (terra-cotta) or gypsum block | Partition walls in many prewar NYC apartments | Anchors made for hollow masonry, set without cracking the block’s thin walls |
| Brick | Exterior walls — the wall around most windows | Masonry anchors drilled into the brick itself |
| Steel lintel | Just above the window opening | Usually avoided — see below |
A quick clue is the dust from a small test hole: white powder is plaster or gypsum, red or orange dust means brick or clay block, and wood shavings mean lath or framing.
The steel lintel above the window
In masonry buildings, a steel angle — the lintel — carries the brick over each window opening. It typically sits a few inches above the top of the frame and runs a little past the opening on both sides. If a drill bit suddenly stops a couple of inches above the frame, it has almost certainly hit the lintel.
There are three good ways around it:
- Mount the brackets above the lintel. A higher rod usually looks better anyway — see how high to hang curtain rods.
- Move the brackets out past the ends of the lintel. A wider rod also lets the panels stack clear of the glass.
- Go to the ceiling with ceiling brackets or a curtain track.
Which one fits depends on the ceiling height, the trim and how far the lintel runs — the installer checks before marking the holes.
Keeping plaster from cracking
- Drill slowly and without hammer mode until you’re through the plaster.
- Use a sharp bit sized for the anchor, not one size up “to make it easier.”
- Don’t overtighten — a bracket that’s snug is enough; cranking it down crushes the plaster behind it.
- Keep brackets away from existing cracks and old patched holes.
Brick around the window
Exterior walls in prewar buildings are usually brick under the plaster. Masonry anchors in brick hold a rod very well. Old lime mortar can be soft, so anchors generally go into the brick itself rather than the joint.
Renting or in a co-op?
Small holes in plaster and brick are easy to patch when you move out, but check your lease if you rent. In a co-op or condo, check the building’s alteration rules — and note that many buildings want a certificate of insurance from any contractor who comes up, even for one rod.
ArtFixPro installs curtain rods and ceiling tracks in prewar and postwar buildings across Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens. A rod up to 8 ft on drywall or brick is $100, on poured concrete $150; the installer confirms the wall and the price with you before drilling.